Navigating Varanasi

Varanasi poses a problem for a blogger.  How on earth do you even begin to describe this crazy place?  How could I dare to try and summarise something so unique? There is too much to say and yet I am gobsmacked.  I was so overwhelmed that I’m almost lost for words.  Almost. Continue reading


The veins of the beast – Indian Rail Network

The Indian Railway Network may as well be its own country with a constitution, its own culture and its very own quirky characters.  Accordingly it deserves a blog of its own, dedicated to trying to convey my snippet of an experience aboard this monolithic beast that is the pulsating life veins of India.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

The train stations are like refugee camps, clogged with litter, inhabited round the clock by sleeping families, limbless beggars dragging across the stone floors, the obligatory cow crunching crisp packets and cackling macaques clambering the wires above. Continue reading